Cosmeceuticals: A transit state from synthetic to natural.

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied cosmetic products containing a biologically active ingredient with a pharmaceutical effect that improves, nourishes, and treats the skin appearance. The trend of cosmeceuticals began during the mid-20th century due to its potent ingredients with therapeutic effects for various skin ailments. Even though there is a great advancement in cosmetics, which shows the risk of cosmetic linked melanoma, endocrine disorders, and birth defects which was one in 1500 people during 1935 have increased to one in 75 people in 2000. Hence, as a part of reducing the harmful effect, natural ingredients were added to the formulation to give the pharmaceutical effect. Thus, natural/herbal cosmeceuticals were introduced. Due to the awareness of the side effects such as photo-toxicity, mutagenicity, irritation by these synthetic products, people started preferring herbal/natural cosmetic products. Moreover, natural cosmeceuticals were proven to be effective against various dermatological conditions as well as have fewer side effects marked the natural/herbal cosmeceuticals in the market. Unlike a drug, cosmeceutical products undergo safety, toxicity, and efficacy tests, but these are not classified under Food and Drug Administration. This review will give an insight into different natural ingredients used in natural/herbal cosmeceutical formulation and their function challenges faced during formulation, advantages of natural cosmeceuticals over regular cosmeceuticals, and regulatory aspects in India.

Nanomedicine-fortified cosmeceutical serums for the mitigation of psoriasis and acne.

Cosmetics have a long history of use for regenerative and therapeutic purposes that are appealing to both genders. The untapped potential of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals promises enhanced efficacy and addresses the issues associated with conventional cosmetics. In the field of cosmetics, the incorporation of nanomedicine using various nanocarriers such as vesicle and solid lipid nanoparticles significantly enhances product effectiveness and promotes satisfaction, especially in tackling prevalent skin diseases. Moreover, vesicle-fortified serum is known for high skin absorption with the capacity to incorporate and deliver various therapeutics. Additionally, nano-embedded serum-based cosmeceuticals hold promise for treating various skin disorders, including acne and psoriasis, heralding potential therapeutic advancements. This review explores diverse nanotechnology-based approaches for delivering cosmetics with maximum benefits.

Antimicrobial Peptides: Challenging Journey to the Pharmaceutical, Biomedical, and Cosmeceutical Use.

Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs), or host defence peptides, are short proteins in various life forms. Here we discuss AMPs, which may become a promising substitute or adjuvant in pharmaceutical, biomedical, and cosmeceutical uses. Their pharmacological potential has been investigated intensively, especially as antibacterial and antifungal drugs and as promising antiviral and anticancer agents. AMPs exhibit many properties, and some of these have attracted the attention of the cosmetic industry. AMPs are being developed as novel antibiotics to combat multidrug-resistant pathogens and as potential treatments for various diseases, including cancer, inflammatory disorders, and viral infections. In biomedicine, AMPs are being developed as wound-healing agents because they promote cell growth and tissue repair. The immunomodulatory effects of AMPs could be helpful in the treatment of autoimmune diseases. In the cosmeceutical industry, AMPs are being investigated as potential ingredients in skincare products due to their antioxidant properties (anti-ageing effects) and antibacterial activity, which allows the killing of bacteria that contribute to acne and other skin conditions. The promising benefits of AMPs make them a thrilling area of research, and studies are underway to overcome obstacles and fully harness their therapeutic potential. This review presents the structure, mechanisms of action, possible applications, production methods, and market for AMPs.

Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations.

Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings.

Bioactive-Based Cosmeceuticals: An Update on Emerging Trends.

Cosmetic-containing herbals are a cosmetic that has or is claimed to have medicinal properties, with bioactive ingredients purported to have medical benefits. There are no legal requirements to prove that these products live up to their claims. The name is a combination of "cosmetics" and "pharmaceuticals". "Nutricosmetics" are related dietary supplements or food or beverage products with additives that are marketed as having medical benefits that affect appearance. Cosmetic-containing herbals are topical cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance the health and beauty of the skin. Cosmetic-containing herbals improve appearance by delivering essential nutrients to the skin. Several herbal products, such as cosmetic-containing herbals, are available. The present review highlights the use of natural products in cosmetic-containing herbals, as natural products have many curative effects as well as healing effects on skin and hair growth with minimal to no side effects. A brief description is given on such plants, their used parts, active ingredients, and the therapeutic properties associated with them. Mainly, the utilization of phytoconstituents as cosmetic-containing herbals in the care of skin and hair, such as dryness of skin, acne, eczema, inflammation of the skin, aging, hair growth, and dandruff, along with natural ingredients, such as for hair colorant, are explained in detail in the present review.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals.

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

A Global Review on Short Peptides: Frontiers and Perspectives.

Peptides are fragments of proteins that carry out biological functions. They act as signaling entities via all domains of life and interfere with protein-protein interactions, which are indispensable in bio-processes. Short peptides include fundamental molecular information for a prelude to the symphony of life. They have aroused considerable interest due to their unique features and great promise in innovative bio-therapies. This work focusing on the current state-of-the-art short peptide-based therapeutical developments is the first global review written by researchers from all continents, as a celebration of 100 years of peptide therapeutics since the commencement of insulin therapy in the 1920s. Peptide "drugs" initially played only the role of hormone analogs to balance disorders. Nowadays, they achieve numerous biomedical tasks, can cross membranes, or reach intracellular targets. The role of peptides in bio-processes can hardly be mimicked by other chemical substances. The article is divided into independent sections, which are related to either the progress in short peptide-based theranostics or the problems posing challenge to bio-medicine. In particular, the SWOT analysis of short peptides, their relevance in therapies of diverse diseases, improvements in (bio)synthesis platforms, advanced nano-supramolecular technologies, aptamers, altered peptide ligands and in silico methodologies to overcome peptide limitations, modern smart bio-functional materials, vaccines, and drug/gene-targeted delivery systems are discussed.

[Functional integrity of aging skin, from cutaneous biology to anti-aging strategies]. / Vieillissement et intégrité de la peau - De la biologie cutanée aux stratégies anti-âge.

The skin is a sentinel organ making easily visible the passing of time. Chronological and environmental aging weakens skin structure and functions. The skin barrier, the elastic and mechanical properties of the cutaneous tissue as well as its vascular reactivity are impacted by aging. The barrier dysfunction in aged skin is caused by defects in epidermal keratinocytes renewal and differentiation notably linked to abnormal expression of microRNAs regulating cell death and autophagy. An abnormal balance between synthesis and degradation of matrix proteins modifies the mechanical properties of the dermis in aged skin. Finally, a reduction of the vascular reactivity linked to endothelial dysfunctions is observed in elderly people. These biological processes can be targeted by therapeutic approaches either topical or systemic, especially using anti-oxydants or senolytics. These anti-aging strategies might contribute to restore, at least in part, the functional integrity of aged skin.

TITLE: Vieillissement et intégrité de la peau - De la biologie cutanée aux stratégies anti-âge. ABSTRACT: La peau est un organe sentinelle, soumis au vieillissement chronologique et environnemental qui fragilise sa structure et ses fonctions. La fonction barrière de la peau, ses propriétés élastiques et de résistance, ainsi que sa réactivité vasculaire sont atteintes par le vieillissement dans les compartiments épidermiques, dermiques et vasculaires. Les progrès de la recherche ont permis de révéler des processus biologiques sous-jacents, qui peuvent être ciblés par des approches médicamenteuses topiques ou globales à base notamment d'anti-oxydants ou de sénolytiques. Ces stratégies anti-âge pourront contribuer à restaurer, au moins en partie, l'intégrité fonctionnelle de la peau âgée.

ARTICLE: Colloidal Oatmeal Part I: History, Basic Science, Mechanism of Action, and Clinical Efficacy in the Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis.

Colloidal oatmeal has a long-standing history in the treatment of dermatologic disease. It is composed of various phytochemicals, which contribute to its wide-ranging function and clinical use. It has various mechanisms of action including direct anti-inflammatory, anti-pruritic, anti-oxidant, anti-fungal, pre-biotic, barrier repair properties, and beneficial effects on skin pH. These have been shown to be of particular benefit in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. In Part 1 of this two-part series, we will explore the history of colloidal oatmeal, basic science, mechanism of action, and clinical efficacy in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19:10(Suppl):s4-7.

The Use of Botanical Extracts in East Asia for Treatment of Hyperpigmentation: An Evidenced-Based Review.

Recent years have seen a growth in the Asian cosmeceutical industry and an expanding worldwide marketplace with increasing consumer use of plant-based skin care products. The rising prevalence of Asian cosmeceuticals has led to research studies assessing the safety and efficacy of these products. We seek to review current evidence on safety and efficacy of key ingredients used in Asian cosmeceuticals to treat disorders of hyperpigmentation. A comprehensive search on PubMed was conducted to identify hyperpigmentation-related research studies on eight popular ingredients used in Asian cosmeceuticals: green tea, soy, orchid, licorice, rice water, ginseng, bamboo, and aloe. Both in vitro studies and clinical trials involving human subjects were included. Of the ingredients reviewed, soy and licorice had the most clinical evidence supporting their efficacy, while all other ingredients were supported by in vitro studies. More research is needed to further evaluate the safety and efficacy of Asian cosmeceutical ingredients in treatment of hyperpigmentation. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(7): doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.4776.

Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges.

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Natural resources used as folk cosmeceuticals among rural communities in Vhembe district municipality, Limpopo province, South Africa.

BACKGROUND: Skin-related diseases affect every individual irrespective of age, gender or social status. Since time immemorial, humans have explored natural resources from their environment for the maintenance of the skin. This explorative survey was conducted to document the natural resources (plant and non-plant materials) used for folk cosmeceuticals by rural communities in Vhembe district municipality, Limpopo province, South Africa. METHODS: The research was conducted in six communities namely: Tshakuma, Shigalo, Tshamutilikwa, Luvhimbi (Masikhwa), Khakhanwa, and Folovhodwe in Vhembe district. Random and convenient sampling was used to access the target population. Semi-structured questionnaires were used to interview 71 participants that comprised traditional practitioners, herbalists and laypeople from the study area. Collected data were analysed using both quantitative (for e.g. frequency, use-value and relative frequency of citation) and qualitative (thematic) analytical methods. RESULTS: A total of 52 plants from 27 families and 22 non-plant materials were used as folk cosmeceuticals in the study area. The most cited plants included Dicerocaryum zanguebarium (Pedaliaceae), Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae) and Helinus integrifolius (Rhamnaceae). Trees and shrubs were the most common plant-life form while leaves were the most popular plant part. Pig fats, red ochre (Luvhundi soil) and ashes were the most cited non-plant materials. These documented natural resources are frequently prepared by crushing and mostly used to heal wounds. CONCLUSION: Traditional knowledge concerning folk cosmeceuticals is mostly held by elders. The high number of natural resources documented is an indication that Vhembe district is rich in ethnopharmacological knowledge. Scientific investigation of the efficacies and safety of these natural resources is highly recommended as a drive aimed at innovations with benefits to the rural communities who are the custodians of this valuable knowledge.

[Five years' experience of cosmetic camouflage of disfiguring skin disorders: Patient satisfaction]. / Cinq ans d'expérience d'un atelier de maquillage médical correcteur des dermatoses affichantes : évaluation par la satisfaction des patients.

INTRODUCTION: Living with disfiguring disorders can impair the emotional well-being and relationships of patients as well as their social and professional life. Since 2010, courses in medical cosmetic correction for disfiguring diseases have been conducted at the dermatology department of the Timone University Hospital in Marseille and they form part of an educational program. The aim of this study was to assess the satisfaction of patients taking part in this program. PATIENTS AND METHODS: This is a retrospective study of 55 patients taking part in make-up sessions from January 2010 to December 2014 and subsequently completing a questionnaire. RESULTS: The median patient age was 46 years with most being women (n=49, 89 %). They presented pigmentary disorders (54.5 %), inflammatory diseases (27.3 %) and scars (18.2 %). 75 % of patients stated that they had improved their knowledge and 82 % remarked that the technique was personalized to their needs. The technique was considered as easy by 62 % and reproducible by 87 % of patients. 55 % of patients considered that cosmetic camouflage improved their quality of life and 56 % stated that it helped them accept the gaze of others. CONCLUSION: In our study skin camouflage appears easy to use and meets patient expectations.

Popular over-the-counter cosmeceutical ingredients and their clinical efficacy.

The cosmeceutical market is a vast and rapidly growing global industry with hundreds of new products introduced each year. Patients often turn to cosmeceuticals to address their skin problems since these products are more accessible and affordable than prescription products. Unlike most drugs, cosmeceuticals do not undergo strict safety or efficacy testing by the FDA since they are classified as cosmetics. While the marketed properties of some ingredients are thoroughly researched and supported by clinical studies, not all ingredients have been tested to this standard, with some having only molecular or in vitro evidence and hardly any clinical authentication to support their use. Given these characteristics of the industry, dermatologists need to be familiar with cosmeceuticals in order to provide appropriate recommendations to their patients. The goal of this review was to explain the mechanism of action and evaluate the efficacy of popular cosmeceutical ingredients.

Potential role of natural bioactive peptides for development of cosmeceutical skin products.

In recent years, consumers' demand for cosmeceutical products with protective and therapeutic functions derived from natural sources have caused this industry to search for alternative active ingredients. Bioactive peptides have a wide spectrum of bioactivities, which make them ideal candidates for development of these cosmeceutical products. In vitro studies have demonstrated that bioactive peptides (obtained as extracts, hydrolysates, and/or individual peptides) exhibit biological properties including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities, in addition to their properties of inhibiting aging-related enzymes such as elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. Some studies report multifunctional bioactive peptides that can simultaneously affect, beneficially, multiple physiological pathways in the skin. Moreover, in vivo studies have revealed that topical application or consumption of bioactive peptides possess remarkable skin protection. These properties suggest that bioactive peptides may contribute in the improvement of skin health by providing specific physiological functions, even though the mechanisms underlying the protective effect have not been completely elucidated. This review provides an overview of in vitro, in silico and in vivo properties of bioactive peptides with potential use as functional ingredients in the cosmeceutical field. It also describes the possible mechanisms involved as well as opportunities and challenges associated with their application.

Development of Novel Topical Cosmeceutical Formulations from Nigella sativa L. with Antimicrobial Activity against Acne-Causing Microorganisms.

Acne vulgaris occurs due to the inflammation of sebaceous follicles in the skin. It is triggered by the activity of some bacterial species like Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, and Staphylococcus epidermidis. Acquisition of antibiotic resistance by these microorganisms and adverse effects associated with the current treatment regimens necessitate the introduction of novel therapeutic agents for acne vulgaris. Thus, this study was undertaken to develop novel gel formulations from seeds of Nigella sativa L. and to evaluate the antibacterial potential against some acne-causing bacterial species. The antibacterial activity of seed extracts was initially screened against S. aureus and P. acnes by the agar well diffusion method. Thereafter, topical gels were formulated incorporating the ethyl acetate extract of seeds of N. sativa at three different concentrations. These topical formulations were subjected to antimicrobial activity studies while the stability was evaluated over a period of 30 days. All three formulations were capable of inhibiting the growth of S. aureus and P. acnes, with the highest antibacterial activity in the formulation comprising 15% of the seed extract. Interestingly, the antibacterial potency of this formulation against S. aureus surpassed the commercial synthetic product used as the positive control. Moreover, any alteration in color, odor, homogeneity, washability, consistency, and pH was not observed while the antibacterial potency was also retained during the storage period. The potent antibacterial activity in topical gel formulations developed from the ethyl acetate extract of N. sativa signposts their suitability as alternatives to existing antiacne agents in the management of acne vulgaris.

Immunopharmacology and immunopathology of peptides and proteins in personal products.

The beneficial effects promoted from the use of biomolecular substances into the formulations of personal care products are considered useful ingredients in cosmetic and therapeutic applications. Innovations in cosmetics are based on new bioactive formulations such as vitamins, oils, peptides, and protein hydrolysates. In skin care, the monomeric amino acids such as serine, threonine, alanine are common ingredients in cosmetics as they function as natural moisturizing factors which act as water-binding molecules. Amino acids and their salts e.g., arginine, glycine, etc. are also used as hair- and skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic formulations. The peptides are composed of short chain of amino acids and are used in cosmetics due to their numerous pathophysiological properties including anti-aging. There is growing interest in bioactive peptides in products for stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis in skin and improve surface healing. The main benefit of using proteins in cosmeceuticals is to improve the hydration of skin. Proteins increase the dehydration in the skin which helps to reduce wrinkles and improves the functions of the skin barrier. This review article describes the peptides, proteins that are most frequently used in cosmeceuticals and their potential benefits and practical use in cosmetic science and skincare.

Acne and Rosacea: Special Considerations in the Treatment of Patients With Latin American Ancestry

Acne is a common disease among patients with Latin American ancestry. Its presentation is very similar to that in all skin types, but nodulocystic acne is more frequent in patients with oily and darker skin than in white Caucasians. Acne sequelae in patients with Latin American ancestry and with darker skin include postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and atrophic and hypertrophic scars or keloids, with PIH being the most common complication affecting the quality of life of patients. Lately, more attention has been paid to rosacea in patients with darker skin. It has been seen that some of the patients, especially women, diagnosed with adult acne and who did not respond to treatment, were actually patients with rosacea. It is important to recognize the clinical characteristics of this disease in patients with darker skin in whom erythema and telangiectasia are difficult to observe. Here, we present the most relevant clinical characteristics of both diseases, as well as their treatment in patients with darker skin with Latin American ancestry. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(3 Suppl):s124-126.